Three days in Yosemite Valley were enough to convince a skeptical President Theodore Roosevelt that the park deserved federal protection; a long weekend in this jewel of the Sierras may likewise change your perspective. Tucked up against the Nevada border line east of San Francisco, Yosemite National Park stands open and ready to amaze you, 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, with its own vocabulary of wonder: Yosemite Falls, Half Dome, the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias, Glacier Point and Tuolumne Meadows. You'll get the most from your stay if you deal with essential planning points early -- like what season to visit, how to get there, and where to stay-- sketch in the "can't miss" highlights, then leave yourself some wiggle room for spontaneity and imagination.
When to Go
Like love, Yosemite is a many splendored thing, sparkling in the bright summer sunlight as well as in winter's cool glow. When you go impacts what to do and where to stay. Early summer is attractive since roads are open, weather is warm, wildflowers abound and waterfalls are at their most gauzy. But summer is popular and you'll need to reserve early. Fall offers elbow room and autumn color, but the closer the year moves toward winter, the less predictable the weather and the more road closures. In winter, Tioga Road closes to cars, eliminating access to Tuolumne Meadows, and chains may be required anywhere in the park; cold-season backpacking is limited but skiing comes into its own. Most of the park holds snow cover through May, when the roads open, waterfalls swell and dogwoods bloom.
The weekend adventure begins on the drive into Yosemite. Either Highway 120 or 140 will take you through gasp-worthy countryside -- think forests and cliffs and views -- as will Highway 41 from the south. Yosemite Valley is a four-hour drive from San Francisco and Sacramento, five hours from Reno and six from Los Angeles. If you are coming in by plane, the nearest airports are in Fresno, Merced or Modesto, each some 2 hours drive. Renting a car gives you greater flexibility but you can also take public transport, using Amtrak's train/bus or Greyhouse bus, changing to YARTS in Merced.
Yosemite Valley is the beating heart of Yosemite Park for visitors, but it's actually only the size of an eyebrow in the park's 1,200-square-mile face. The park presents like an upright (north/south) oval, with the squiggle of Tioga Road splitting it in half west/east. Must-see areas like Tuolomne Meadows lie along that road. The Yosemite Valley loop road cuts into the park south of Tioga and encircles a portion of the Merced River; the Visitor's Center, Yosemite Lodge, Ahwahnee Hotel and Valley campgrounds are scattered around the loop. Biking and hiking trails also circle the valley, offering views of many of the park's famous features.
The range of lodging in Yosemite is astonishing: from royal to rustic. The Ahwahnee Hotel reigns as the grande dame of the Valley, with its luxurious rooms and spectacular views of Half Dome, Yosemite Falls and Glacier Point. The choice of presidents and royalty, the Ahwahnee is as good as it gets in a national park. But park lodges (like Yosemite Lodge, Tuolumne Lodge and White Wolf Lodge) offer more relaxed quarters for sleeping and dining with a lower price tag. Tent-cabins -- cabins made of canvas with built-in beds and lamps -- put you in a camping mood; check out the offerings in Curry Village, White Wolf Lodge and High Sierra Camps. And don't forget campground options. You'll find established campgrounds throughout the valley and up Tioga Road, offering the usual amenities, but consider obtaining a permit to hike into the wilderness and sleep under the stars.
Day One: The Best of the Valley
Yosemite Valley is not Disneyland. Yes, you'll see a general store and the like, but Mother Nature holds the cards here, and the Valley remains largely as John Muir described it: "noble walls, sculptured into endless variety of domes and gables, spires and battlements and plain mural precipices, all a-tremble with the thunder tones of the falling water."
Explore the Valley at your own pace. Almost any hiker enjoys the flat, 6.5 mile Valley circle trail and the easy, half-mile hikes to the base of Lower Yosemite Falls and Bridalveil Falls. Hop on the free shuttle that tours the Valley, descending at stops to explore, or else rent a bike and dive into the eight miles of bike trail. El Capitan and Half Dome are visible from many Valley locations, and you'll also pass meadows and forests, ideal morning "hunting" territory for birdwatchers hoping to spot one of the 165 species passing through. Swim or raft in the Merced River on hot days, cross-country ski when the snow falls. In the evening, have a drink at the Ahwanhee, or attend a free nature program.
If touring the valley on foot gives you a charge, the challenge of a real hike is a lightening blast: the sweat, the exhilaration of the challenge, the glory of the view. The "YES!" that comes from hiking the 16.5 miles of strenuous trail to Half Dome and back echoes for months to come, but if you're not quite ready, try the 8 mile Nevada Falls trail, or something in between. These hikes should be the centerpiece of a day, so pack a lunch and water, wear good shoes and take your time. When you're done, shower off, then drive over to Mariposa on the south end of the park to walk through the grove of ancient redwoods. It'll take about an hour to get to the area of Sequoia gigantica, the largest living beings on the planet. While you're in that area, stop by to tour the historic buildings in Wawona and have a drink or dinner at the Wawona Hotel.
Something about a meadow calms the frazzled spirit, and Tuolumne is right up there on the "best meadows" list, a grassy, subalpine meadow that sits at an elevation of 8,500 feet. Get up early to make the breathtaking, one-hour drive up Tioga Road from Yosemite Valley. Breakfast at the rustic Tuolumne Meadows Lodge before crossing the meadow, an easy but delightful stroll in summer. The Tuolumne River winds its merry way through the meadow, and granite peaks rise on all sides. You can sign up for a guided horseback ride at the stables, even if you've never ridden before. Then pack picnic fare (hit the grill or the convenience store) and head for Tenaya Lake, where you can also swim, rent a canoe or hike. In summers, a free shuttle will take you there. The more adventurous might prefer to take rock-climbing classes at Tuolumne Meadows with the Yosemite Mountaineering School; the domes are less crowded and easier to climb than the cliffs in the Valley. Remember that the Tioga Road closes to vehicles in November, but you can still get there cross-country skiing.
