"Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home, that mountain parks and reservations are fountains of life," John Muir wrote in Our National Parks.
Today, national parks seem American as apple pie, but a hundred years ago the idea of reserving glorious, undeveloped landscapes for public use was considered radical. Muir's was one of the earliest and most eloquent voices advocating the parks program that today protects some 83 million acres of our country's splendor. Writer Wallace Stegner was another supporter. He called national parks the best idea the United States ever had, saying that the existence of a park is good for our spiritual health, even if we never set foot in it.
Yet Americans do set foot in national parks, and tourists flock from foreign shores to join us, to the tune of 275 million visitors annually. With parks and reserves in every state, you don't need to travel far to be inspired. But some national parks are so wondrous that you'll want to add them to your life list. Here are 7 to visit first.
Geysers and bison and bear, oh my! Yellowstone was the first national park to be protected, and remains one of the most popular. It's an intoxicating mix of geothermal wonders (the park houses half of all natural geysers in the world) and exceptional wildlife; people trek to this huge Wyoming wonderland for glimpses of wolves, elk, eagles, buffalo and grizzly bear as well as the planet's most famous geyser, Old Faithful, and other-worldly, iridescent, boiling mudflats. Plan your visit to Yellowstone with the weather in mind. Camping and auto touring are best reserved for summer. Although the north entrance is open year-round, many other roads are closed to vehicles in winter. Still, winter visitors are dazzled by the sight of geysers shooting from snow-covered ground.
The biggest living beings on the planet dwell in Yosemite -- the giant redwoods -- but theirs will not be the only heads in the clouds if you visit this magical park in the California Sierras. No photos or brochures prepare you for the glory of ascending a rocky cliff for a view of Yosemite Valley, Half Dome and the Sierras beyond. Think forests, rivers, deer, spectacular waterfalls splashing down from twice the height of the Empire State Building. Summer you can get a wilderness camping permit and hike back into undeveloped territory. Alternatively, choose one of the popular campgrounds on the valley floor, opt for tent cabins at Curry Village or even splurge for an overnight the the fabulous, five-star lodge, the Ahwanhee Hotel, with its walk-in fireplace and classical music. Winter visitors get an extra dose of serenity, crystal landscapes and cross-country skiing.
Just try describing the Great Smoky Mountain National Park without superlatives -- the mountains are the tallest in the Appalachian chain, host the most diverse plant, animal and insect life of any temperate area, and attract more visitors to this park than any in the national system. The park's 500,000 square-acres are bisected by the mountain chain whose crest represents the border between Tennessee and North Carolina. Line after line of ancient mountains decline in the distance, some 300 million years young. You can tour the park by car, bike or on horseback, or delight in the 800 miles of hiking trails that lead you to old-growth forests, waterfalls and endless stunning vistas. Summer brings an explosion of leaves, wildflowers and wildlife -- like black bear cubs and some 30 different species of salamander. Autumn arrives wearing brilliant red and coral; but the views in winter are unsurpassed as the bare trees make room for roaming eyes.
It is a canyon without equal on the planet -- one mile deep, 10 wide, 277 long -- an awe-inspiring vista that redefines your personal definition of immensity. Some 5 million people arrive annually to gaze over the rim at the variegated layers of geologic color exposed over millennium as the Colorado river did its work. But there's more to a visit to the Grand Canyon than staring. You can hike or ride a mule down winding paths to the floor of the canyon, soar above it in a helicopter, or arrange a daring, white-water raft trip down the mighty Colorado, with the canyon walls rising on either side. In summer, both the South Rim and the North Rim centers offer lodging and dining facilities. The South Rim is the more popular vista point, the easiest one to access and the only one open in winter.
It's more than the home to the loftiest peak in North America; Denali is a national park that someone did right. Imagine 6 million acres of taiga forest, tundra and the jagged peaks of the Alaska Range, accessed only by a thin, unpaved road running down the center. No private car tours here; only park-operated buses ply the road, but that leaves you free to press your nose to the window. You can descend at any stop and spend the day hiking, picnicking, or taking incredible photos. The views rise from low forests to the 20,320 foot majesty of Mount McKinley, and fearless wildlife roam the unfenced wilderness. Look for grizzly bear, moose, caribou, Dall sheep (with their curling horns), red fox, snowshoe hare, wolves and marmots. Your most exciting lodging option is to obtain a backpacking permit at the gate, but you can also reserve a spot at one of the six established campgrounds.
Travel to the Pacific Northwest to experience the trinity of bioscapes of the Olympic National Park, a million-acre almost-island on the Washington coast, surrounded on three sides by seawater. You'll see soaring mountain peaks surrounded by subalpine meadows, a portion of the world's largest temperate rainforest, and the rough glory of the rugged Pacific Coast. No roads cross the park (although there are ample access roads off US 101) and its unspoiled beauty and astounding scenery helped it achieve international-biosphere-reserve and World-Heritage-site status. Although the vast majority of the park's million acres are official wilderness, you'll find everything from luxury lodges to rustic campgrounds within a few miles from the entrance. Choices are tough if time is limited: hike through the dense, primeval rainforests in the Quinault or Hoh Valleys, tour the most fabulous of the waterfalls like the Sol Duc or Madison Falls, kayak the wild coastlands.
No place is better to hide than the lush, swampy vegetation of the Everglades National Park, with its cypress marshes and mangrove forests. A place of refuge in yesteryear for the Seminole Indians as well as for runaway slaves, it currently provides safe haven for crocodiles, manatee, Florida panther, wading water birds like egrets, and thousands of species of plants. You'll see the most if you opt for some type of water transportation, and kayaking, canoeing and boat tours are popular, but visitors can also hike, bike, fish and birdwatch. This is a great park to choose for a winter (dry season) vacation between December and April, since the wet season (May through November) can be muggy, with humidity up to 90% and temperatures over 90 degrees Fahrenheit. No lodging is available in the park, so make camping or hotel reservations in nearby communities, like Chokoloskee, Homestead, Miami, Florida City and Everglades City.
