Gushing geysers, the Rockies, herds of bison, silence. Yellowstone's natural wonder altered forever the relationship between humans and open spaces when, in 1872, it was named the first National Park on the planet. Old Faithful is a miracle, but that's not all, folks. Think prismatic springs, pounding waterfalls, colorful geysers and mud volcanoes. You could stay for weeks without seeing all 10,000 hydrothermal features the park contains, but all the more reason to come back. A long weekend in Yellowstone is a good first date that might lead to a lifetime of love.
For the best possible three-day trip, make basic decisions early in the planning process, like when you want to visit. (Yes it snows in Wyoming early and often.) Activities and lodging options fall into place when you know whether you will roam Yellowstone's magnificent immensity in spring, summer, winter or fall.
When to Go
Yellowstone offers true seasonal contrast, and each period has its charm. Summer temperatures are toasty during peak visiting months of July and August, making campers, hikers and fishermen happy. Late July is when the bison rut, so it's also best for bison-viewing. Fine weather extends into fall, and if you go in September and October, you'll experience fewer crowds. After that, expect chill. Winter brings snow, ice, and cold (temperatures can drop to - 66 degrees Fahrenheit), conditions that impact your visit in many ways, starting with annual road closures. Snow flurries limit hiking and backpacking but bring skiing opportunities and the surreal vision of geysers in winter. Snow stays through spring, but as the days grow longer, you'll see new-born baby bison, elk and bear cubs. Just after that, in early summer, comes the first sweep of wildflowers.
Yellowstone Park is a rectangle of 3,500 square miles, about twice the size of the state of Delaware; most of the park squeezes into the northwestern corner of Wyoming, with only a little overlap into Montana and Idaho. You can drive into any of the park's five entrances in summer but only the north and northeast entrances are open in winter. If you are flying in, you can book a flight to airports in Wyoming (Cody and Jackson), Montana (Bozeman, Billings and West Yellowstone), or Idaho (Idaho Falls). Although you can catch a bus or other commercial transportation into the park from many of these airports during the summer, you'll see more and retain your flexibility if you rent a car.
Your choice: three stars or a million. Within Yellowstone, you can choose between nine lodges, 12 established campgrounds and backcountry, under-the-stars camping. Lodge choices range from the Old Faithful Inn, a National Historic Landmark built in 1904, to Snow Lodge and Cabins, only 30 years young. Both lodges and campsites are scattered throughout the park. Reserve early; despite the 2,000 hotel rooms and 1,700 campsites, they go fast in summer. Seven of the campgrounds run on a first-come basis, but arrive in early morning to get a spot. In July and August, you're limited to two weeks camping; other seasons, the maximum stay extends to 30 days. Choices are whittled down significantly in winter, with only two lodges open all year. You can also reserve backcountry campsites in advance, but must obtain a wilderness permit 48 hours or less before you set out. Be sure you know wilderness rules and required procedures to avoid attracting bears.
Get a bird's eye overview of the park by studying a map before you go. The park is a rectangle, higher than wide, with one entrance on each side but two -- north and northeast -- on the top. It is these two that are open year round. Spur roads enter the park from each gate, then attach to a ring-road circling the heart of the park. Famous sites can be found around the central ring roads; For example, Old Faithful is halfway between the west and south entrances, Yellowstone's Grand Canyon between the northeast and the east entrance, and the Norris Geyser Basin, the most dynamic of Yellowstone's thermal areas, is equidistant to the north and east entrances.
Old Faithful is to Yellowstone what the Mona Lisa is to the Louvre -- people push blindly by other glorious attractions to get a look at it -- so make this geyser the highlight of your first day in the park. First, visit the Canyon Visitor Education Center to learn about the Yellowstone volcano through interactive exhibits and audio-visual productions. Then head to the Upper Geyser Basin and climb up Observation Point (some 250 feet) for great views of Old Faithful and many other geysers in the area. Old Faithful erupts regularly every 60 to 110 minutes, expelling up to 8,500 gallons of boiling water to 184 feet in the air. Other geysers in the area have different "schedules" so spend whatever time is necessary to visit the Solitary Geyser (erupting every 8 minutes), Plume Geyser (every 20 minutes), dazzling Beehive Geyer (twice a day), the four Lion Geysers (every day) and Sawmill Geyser, erupting every several hours, sometimes continuously for 4 hours. Pack a picnic lunch or go to the Old Faithful Lodge Cafeteria. In the afternoon, take a day hike back to Fairy Falls, one of Yellowstone's most spectacular cascades, or opt for the more strenuous route to Mystic Falls.
The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, like the other Grand Canyon, is a river canyon formed by erosion. It's the Yellowstone River that did the digging in Yellowstone, creating a canyon some 20 miles long and 1,200 feet deep. Walk along the rim trail for a view of its grandeur. Take the Brink of the Upper Falls Trail for a good look at the Upper Falls that tumble over 100 feet into the canyon. The Lower Falls Trail get you a view of the Lower Falls, three times as high as the Upper Falls and twice the height of Niagara. Picnic in Hayden Valley, one of the best places in the world to view bear, including grizzlies, bison, elk and other wildlife. In May and June, look for newborn elk and bison, as well as bear and coyotes that view them as food. Sign up for a several hour, guided horseback ride from the Canyon. Even better, go for the evening ride that ends with a steak dinner at a cookout site. .
Day three starts with Yellowstone Lake; at 7,000 feet above sea level, it is the biggest, high-altitude lake in North America. The lake freezes over in December, but if you come in a warmer season, rent an outboard or a rowboat at Xanterra Parks & Resorts at Bridge Bay Marina. Afterwards, picnic at one of the sites along the lakefront, then hike to Mud Canyon, a geothermic area with hot springs and mud pots. Be sure to see the Dragon's Mouth, where a shiny water tongue runs through a bed of steam, continually belching. Walk north from there to a viewing area for the Sulphur Caldron, hot springs so acidic that the waters bubble a mustard yellow. Before calling it a day, take the easy, 2.5 mile loop trail from Indian Pond, 3 miles east of the Fishing Bridge Visitor Center, to Storm Point. You'll cross level meadow and shady forest before attaining the viewpoint over Yellowstone Lake to the Rockies beyond.
