They call it Mauna Kea, meaning “white mountain.” Hawaii’s highest peak is a dormant volcano that frequently wears a dusting of snow, hence the name. Sometimes the snow is deep enough to ski or snowboard on, though it can be a rough ride. Other than the observatories dotting the upper regions of Mauna Kea and the Mauna Kea Visitor Information Station this is still a wild place. The closest accommodations are in nearby Hilo to the east and along the Kohala Coast in the west.
Geology of Mauna Kea
- Mauna Kea tops out at 13,776 feet, but that’s just from sea level. If you measure from the ocean floor, the mountain is 33,476 feet tall, making it the tallest mountain on Earth. The volcano last erupted between 4,000 and 5,000 years ago and so far has remained quiet. The mountain is mostly basalt, covered with layers of lava from the most recent lava flows. About 20,000 years ago Mauna Kea was covered with glacial ice. As that ice sheet retreated it laid bare some of the oldest terrain on the mountain. The extremely dry atmosphere and the remote locale makes Mauna Kea ideal for astronomical observatories. Thirteen telescopes dot the summit including Keck, the largest optical telescope on the planet. The observatories are private with no public access. Those interested in stargazing may take advantage of the program at the Mauna Kea Visitor Information Station.
Flora of Mauna Kea
- Parts of Mauna Kea may appear barren, but the iron-rich soil does produce its share of plants. One of the rarest is the silversword, found only on Mauna Kea and on Haleakala on Maui. Reaching up to 6 feet tall and 2 feet wide at maturity, this plant has hundreds of spiky leaves that give off a silver sheen, though it can take up to 40 years for the plant to flower. The edible ohelo berry grows in volcanic soil and is found on parts of Mauna Kea, and you’ll sometimes find ohelo berry jam in local shops. Pukiawe is a shrub that maxes out at a height of 4 feet. These berries aren’t edible, but the ancient Hawaiians used them to make dyes. Non-native species have also found a foothold on Mauna Kea including the California poppy, the Chilean evening primrose and geraniums.
- Mauna Kea Fauna
- The nene, the Hawaii state bird, is a flightless goose that looks remarkably like its Canadian cousin. When the birds arrived in Hawaii there were no predators so they lost the ability to fly. Westerners came to the island in the 18th century and brought dogs, cats and other animals that found the nene easy prey. That led to their near extinction in the mid 1900s. Today the nene wanders the mid-elevations of Mauna Kea munching on seeds, berries and other plants. The chukar is a member of the partridge family and can survive even on the summit of Mauna Kea. This non-native bird originated in Asia and was imported for sport hunting. The Erckel’s francolin, from the Middle East, was similarly imported and thrives on the mountain.
Mauna Kea Visitor Information Station
- The formal name is the Onizuka Center for International Astronomy Visitor Information Station on Mauna Kea. Its namesake is Hawaiian native and astronaut Ellison Onizuka, who died in the Challenger shuttle disaster in 1986. The center sits at an elevation of 9,200 feet and is the starting point for hikes to Mauna Kea’s summit. Hikers must register before heading out on the 14-mile round-trip journey. If you’re not up to that challenge try the Pu’u Kalepemoa Trail, a 15-minute hike that leads you around the station to the perfect sunset viewing spot. The station also hosts a nightly star gazing program. Astronomers set up viewing telescopes and give impromptu lectures on the stars and other objects in the night sky. Night temperatures can be near-freezing, even in summer. Dress warm and leave the sandals at home.
Skiing Mauna Kea
- During the winter Mauna Kea gets enough snow to make the mountain skiable. There are no ski resorts, no lifts and no grooming. You need at least one fellow skier to go with you because your “lift” is your car. One person skis down the mountain while the other waits in a designated pickup spot down below. Switch places and repeat. The run is also unmarked; you just follow along the row of observatories. At times you’ll suddenly come across barren patches of ground which are difficult to navigate. Bare lava is also hard on skis and snowboards. Experienced skiers only should try these runs because of the altitude and remote locale.
