A Self-Guided Tour of the Road to Hana

The scenic, 55-mile drive to Hana, on the Hawaiian island of Maui, is one of the island's most famous attractions. The winding road covers an astounding 600 hairpin turns and 54 one-lane bridges through coastal rain forest on the northern edge of the island. Driving the road on your own, rather than with a tour company, saves money, and you can make as many or as few stops as you choose.

Before You Go

• Most driving trips start in the surfer haven of Paia, on the northern coast of Maui. Fill up your gas tank here since there's no gas along the way except when you reach Hana, where it's marked up significantly. Buy lunch and snacks from Mana Foods, the organic grocery. Paia also is a good place to stretch your legs if you've traveled from another part of the island. Pack sunscreen, sturdy walking or hiking shoes, bug spray, towels and a bathing suit if you plan to take a dip in one of the many inviting pools, and, of course, a camera. You also might want to bring cash to buy produce, ice cream or coffee at one of the many roadside stands on the way to Hana.

Waterfalls

• Viewpoints abound on the road to Hana. You'll take in views of the coastline, the enormous Pacific Ocean waves -- and maybe the occasional surfer -- and the lush rain forest. But one of the most common themes on the Road to Hana is the waterfalls. Those 54 bridges cross over turbid streams that often sport stunning cascades. You can stop at a few, but often you have to resort to photographing them through your car window; the roads are narrow and stopping isn't always an option. There is a small parking lot at Pua'a Ka'a State Park, about 22 miles from Paia. Here, a short walk leads to an emerald pool sporting a small waterfall. The water usually is cold, but refreshing, on a hot day.

Waianapanapa State Park

• Just 3 miles before you reach Hana, stop for a picnic and a hike at Waianapanapa State Park. Here, you can photograph the volcanic rock-studded coastline, visit a natural blowhole where waves explode through rocks, and hike to a black-sand beach. The turquoise waves are inviting, but be careful if you're swimming here in the afternoon; waves can pick up considerably later in the day, and the water can be dangerously rough. Other trails lead to freshwater caves, which also are great swimming spots if you don't mind chilly water. The park has picnic tables, a campground and restrooms.

Hana

• The town of Hana is blink-and-you'll-miss-it small, but it's worth a stop. If you haven't had lunch, check out one of the roadside stands, or stock up at the Hasegawa General Store, which has served Hana since 1910. Walk Hana's quiet streets or stroll the beach at Hana Bay and get a feel for life on this remote part of Maui. Many travelers choose to turn around here, but if you continue your journey, you're in for more fantastic scenery and the most impressive waterfalls of all.

Beyond Hana

• Drive another 10 miles on the Hana Highway and you'll reach the coastal swath of Haleakala National Park, on the southern slopes of Maui's massive volcano. Here, in the Kipahulu district of the park, you can swim in the pristine pools of the Ohe'o Gulch, or hike up through a verdant bamboo forest to Waimoku Falls. From the parking lot, take the Pipiwai Trail 2 miles up the gulch until it ends at the 400-foot-tall waterfall. Stand in its spray as you crane your neck to take it all in.

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Personalities of the Six Major Hawaiian Islands

Rumor has it that Pele the fire goddess was chased across the Pacific Ocean by her sister Namakaokaha’i, the water goddess. As Pele spewed her lava on one island, Namakaokaha’i doused the flames. Pele ended up on the Big Island, safely housed in Mauna Loa, too high up for her sister’s waves to reach. The Hawaiian Islands were born of fire, but scientifically speaking, they were created by a “hot spot” far beneath those waves. Over time, erosion by wind and water -- along with the arrival of animals and people -- gave each island its own personality.

Kauai -- Island of Discovery

• Kauai was the first of the main islands created by Pele. Once tagged the “Garden Isle” because of its lush greenery, Kauai is now promoted as the “Island of Discovery.” Capt. James Cook arrived in Kauai first. This is the land of the menehune, small folk thought to come out at night to complete impressive tasks such as the Menehune Fishpond near Lihue. Kauai has wide sandy beaches, lush rain forests, towering cliffs and impressive waterfalls. The photogenic isle caught the attention of Hollywood, and was used as a backdrop for films such as “South Pacific” and Elvis Presley's “Blue Hawaii.” In movies, even T-Rex roamed the North Shore forests, terrorizing scientists in “Jurassic Park.” Personality wise, Kauai is laid back, photogenic and impressively green.

Oahu -- The Heart of Hawaii

• Oahu was Pele’s second creation, and it has a split personality. The southern end is home to metropolitan Honolulu, the state capital that is just as sophisticated as anything on the mainland. Waikiki Beach, famed surfing and sunning spot with a reputation for partying, is a bonus. Kapiolani Park, an open green space in the heart of the resort area, has the Honolulu Zoo and the Waikiki Aquarium. The North Shore is for those seeking out-of-the-box adventures. This unruly coast is home to gigantic waves challenging surfers that dare to enter the water. Laniakea Beach is a favorite sunning spot for green sea turtles. The endangered creatures don’t mind photos, but getting too close is not advised. Matsumoto Shave Ice in Haleiwa has been serving up its sweet, cooling treats since 1951.

Maui -- The Magic Isle

• Maui is the island of magic and romance. Kaanapali Beach on the western shore is the most famous of the island’s locales. This is a land of long lazy days, fiery sunsets and between November and April, humpback whales dancing offshore. Molokini Island, a crescent-shaped remnant of a volcanic cone, is a prime snorkeling and diving spot. Sleepy Hana is a bit of heaven on earth that so impressed aviator Charles Lindbergh that he chose that spot as his final resting place. Once you’ve negotiated the 52 one-lane bridges and the 600 hairpin turns you might be ready to spend the night. Accommodations range from pampered luxury at the Travaasa Experiential Resort to the more remote Hana by the Sea near romantic Hamoa Beach. Haleakala Crater takes up much of eastern Maui, and its summit is a great place to welcome the dawn.

Molokai -- Hawaiian by Nature

• Molokai is lightly populated, lightly visited and very much represents the Hawaii of old. This is where Father Damien ministered to those banished to Molokai because they had Hansen’s disease, also known as leprosy. Kalaupapa National Historical Park is now open to visitors, accessed by a long hike or mule ride down a winding, narrow path. Today the good father is Saint Damien, and he is buried on the site. Plan a picnic on Papohaku, a family friendly white sandy beach, or book a sports fishing charter out of Kaunakakaui Harbor. Play a round of golf at Ironwood Hills, a laid-back golf course that doesn’t even require tee times. Nature lovers and those who want to relax a bit -- or a lot -- will enjoy carefree Molokai.

Lanai -- Hawaii’s Most Enticing Island

• It wasn’t too long ago that Lanai’s tagline was “The Pineapple Isle.” Once, this little cone-shaped island was one big pineapple plantation, with the exception of Lanai City and the Cavendish Golf Course. The course was built for the plantation workers, and to this day does not accept tee times. It’s also free. Today the island is home to two upscale Four Seasons Resorts, the oceanfront Manele Bay and the inland Lodge at Koele. Part of the enticement is the pure luxury offered by both of these resorts and world class golf at their respective courses. Another draw is the chance to bounce along a dirt road in search of hidden treasures such as the sculptured rocks at Garden of the Gods or the remote sands of Polihua Beach. Snorkeling the reefs off Hulopoe Beach Park is an unmatched underwater treat.

Hawaii -- The Big Island

• Pele’s current home, the island of Hawaii, is affectionately known as the Big Island. This is the land of paniolos herding cows on the Parker Ranch, of observatories scanning the universe from perches atop Mauna Kea and of world class golf courses adding color to an almost desert-like western shore. The sleepy town of Hilo, on the eastern end, is a reminder of times past. It doesn’t take too much imagination to picture horses tied up outside some of the storefronts rather than cars in parking spots. Roughly 30 miles southwest of Hilo is Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Fiery rivers of lava continue to pour over the landscape on its way to the sea. Since Kilauea’s awakening in 1994, the volcano destroyed the town of Kalapana but in return added 491 acres of real estate to the island. Pele and her sister are still fighting. Southeast of the Big Island, the island of Loihi is forming at the bottom of the sea. It will be centuries before the tip of Loihi breaches the surface, if Pele wins the argument.

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Highest Peak in the Hawaiian Islands

They call it Mauna Kea, meaning “white mountain.” Hawaii’s highest peak is a dormant volcano that frequently wears a dusting of snow, hence the name. Sometimes the snow is deep enough to ski or snowboard on, though it can be a rough ride. Other than the observatories dotting the upper regions of Mauna Kea and the Mauna Kea Visitor Information Station this is still a wild place. The closest accommodations are in nearby Hilo to the east and along the Kohala Coast in the west.

Geology of Mauna Kea

• Mauna Kea tops out at 13,776 feet, but that’s just from sea level. If you measure from the ocean floor, the mountain is 33,476 feet tall, making it the tallest mountain on Earth. The volcano last erupted between 4,000 and 5,000 years ago and so far has remained quiet. The mountain is mostly basalt, covered with layers of lava from the most recent lava flows. About 20,000 years ago Mauna Kea was covered with glacial ice. As that ice sheet retreated it laid bare some of the oldest terrain on the mountain. The extremely dry atmosphere and the remote locale makes Mauna Kea ideal for astronomical observatories. Thirteen telescopes dot the summit including Keck, the largest optical telescope on the planet. The observatories are private with no public access. Those interested in stargazing may take advantage of the program at the Mauna Kea Visitor Information Station.

Flora of Mauna Kea

• Parts of Mauna Kea may appear barren, but the iron-rich soil does produce its share of plants. One of the rarest is the silversword, found only on Mauna Kea and on Haleakala on Maui. Reaching up to 6 feet tall and 2 feet wide at maturity, this plant has hundreds of spiky leaves that give off a silver sheen, though it can take up to 40 years for the plant to flower. The edible ohelo berry grows in volcanic soil and is found on parts of Mauna Kea, and you’ll sometimes find ohelo berry jam in local shops. Pukiawe is a shrub that maxes out at a height of 4 feet. These berries aren’t edible, but the ancient Hawaiians used them to make dyes. Non-native species have also found a foothold on Mauna Kea including the California poppy, the Chilean evening primrose and geraniums.
• Mauna Kea Fauna

• The nene, the Hawaii state bird, is a flightless goose that looks remarkably like its Canadian cousin. When the birds arrived in Hawaii there were no predators so they lost the ability to fly. Westerners came to the island in the 18th century and brought dogs, cats and other animals that found the nene easy prey. That led to their near extinction in the mid 1900s. Today the nene wanders the mid-elevations of Mauna Kea munching on seeds, berries and other plants. The chukar is a member of the partridge family and can survive even on the summit of Mauna Kea. This non-native bird originated in Asia and was imported for sport hunting. The Erckel’s francolin, from the Middle East, was similarly imported and thrives on the mountain.

Mauna Kea Visitor Information Station

• The formal name is the Onizuka Center for International Astronomy Visitor Information Station on Mauna Kea. Its namesake is Hawaiian native and astronaut Ellison Onizuka, who died in the Challenger shuttle disaster in 1986. The center sits at an elevation of 9,200 feet and is the starting point for hikes to Mauna Kea’s summit. Hikers must register before heading out on the 14-mile round-trip journey. If you’re not up to that challenge try the Pu’u Kalepemoa Trail, a 15-minute hike that leads you around the station to the perfect sunset viewing spot. The station also hosts a nightly star gazing program. Astronomers set up viewing telescopes and give impromptu lectures on the stars and other objects in the night sky. Night temperatures can be near-freezing, even in summer. Dress warm and leave the sandals at home.

Skiing Mauna Kea

• During the winter Mauna Kea gets enough snow to make the mountain skiable. There are no ski resorts, no lifts and no grooming. You need at least one fellow skier to go with you because your “lift” is your car. One person skis down the mountain while the other waits in a designated pickup spot down below. Switch places and repeat. The run is also unmarked; you just follow along the row of observatories. At times you’ll suddenly come across barren patches of ground which are difficult to navigate. Bare lava is also hard on skis and snowboards. Experienced skiers only should try these runs because of the altitude and remote locale.

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