At first look all you see is open scrubland with a topography that ranges from craggy mountains to endless stretches of nearly flat high desert. Interstate 80 covers some 400 miles of this landscape between the California and Utah borders. Chances are you’ll be sharing the roadway with interstate truckers interested in getting from point A to point B with little delay. Follow their lead and you’ll make the drive in less than 6 hours. Stop and explore the surprises along the way, and your journey becomes the destination.
Reno
- Roughly 10 miles from the California-Nevada border is the gambling city of Reno. It’s not as flashy as Las Vegas, with a bit less neon and more of a western vibe. The Silver Legacy Resort Casino, an elegantly posh place to spend the night, is done up in vintage Victorian style, a contrast to the high-tech laser light show in its distinctive dome. Atlantis Casino Resort and Spa is more Vegas-like, with contemporary architecture and dancing fountains. John Ascuaga’s Nugget is one of the oldies but goodies, opening in 1955 as a café with a few one-armed bandits, or slot machines. Today the property has two modern towers that are competitive with the newer resorts but still retain that western flare. If you are visiting Reno in October, head about 25 miles south to the old mining town of Virginia City. The World Championship Outhouse Races are held on the first weekend of the month, drawing creative contestants from around the country. Previous entries included “The Haunted Outhouse” and “The Golden Throne.” The sight of these silly outhouses whizzing along on a street more suitable for stagecoaches is downright funny.
Love Locking in Lovelock
- Roughly 93 miles northeast of Reno is the town of Lovelock, the county seat of Pershing County. At one time Lovelock had a sizable Chinese population brought over from Asia to work on the railroads. Along with the workers came the custom of symbolically locking their love on a chain and tossing away the key. The idea was that as long as the lock remained on the chain, a couple’s love would remain strong. Lovelock has its own Lovers Lock Plaza, dedicated on Valentine’s Day in 2006. Buy a lock at one of participating businesses and head for the collection of green metal posts and chains in back of the Pershing County Courthouse. Add your lock to the growing collection and toss away the key, or not.
Winnemucca – Basque Culture
- Winnemucca, 82 miles east of Lovelock on I-80, is home to a large Basque population, many descended from immigrants who arrived in the 1850s. The California Gold Rush brought them far from their roots on land bordering France and Spain. If you’re driving through town during the second Saturday in June, stop by the Basque Festival and sample some Picon Punch. You might want to book a hotel first, as that alcoholic treat packs quite the “punch.” The Winnemucca Hotel, built n 1863 and on the National Register of Historic Places, still serves authentic Basque cuisine in its dining room.
Button Point – Historic Sites
- Another 10 miles east on I-80 you’ll find yourself at Button Point, a rest area named for local ranching legend and Humboldt County Commissioner Frank Button. The marker describes the Winnemucca area back in 1873 when Button started his 4,000-acre cattle ranch. Another marker at Button Point describes the discovery of the Humboldt River in 1828. The waterway went through several name changes since discoverer Peter Ogden called it the “Unknown River.” Finally, in 1848, the name “Humboldt River” was officially in print. The river is significant because it was the only natural waterway crossing the Great Basin. Travelers from the eastern United States relied on this water source to help them get to the west coast.
Elko and the South Fork State Recreation Area
- Another 115 miles east brings you into the smallish town of Elko. Rising out of the arid landscape like a verdant oasis, Elko hosts a number of public parks in the downtown core along with Riverview Park fronting the Humboldt River. Play a round of golf at the Ruby View Golf Course on the northern end of town. Interstate 80 bisects the town, with many hotels, restaurants and cafes along its length. Elko makes a great base for visiting the South Fork State Recreation Area, roughly seven miles south of town. The reservoir is the main drainage basin for the Humboldt River and is a prime hunting and fishing spot. Bring your boat and launch it from one of two ramps. Camping is available within the recreation area between May and mid-October. Tents and RVs up to 30 feet long are welcome.
