When you need a break from the hustle and cafe life of Amsterdam, head northeast to Groningen, a university city full of art, culture, festivals and music about 120 miles from the capital. It’s got traditional Dutch windmills, the kind of quirky charm you come to expect from the Netherlands and the hipness of a city full of college students. To really experience the city, do it by bike. The Dutch commute on bike, and hopping on your own two wheels and pedaling away will give you the freedom of having your own transportation, but with a little more speed than walking provides. Then hop a bus to get to nearby national parks.
The Groninger Museum
- The city’s flagship museum, located in the middle of town, includes works by artists from around the globe. Its permanent collection also contains artwork by local artist collective De Ploeg. The museum itself, designed by Italian architect Alessandro Mendini, is a work of art, sitting in the middle of a pool of water that reflects the unusual architecture back to the viewer. Other museums include the Netherlands Strip Museum, a gallery dedicated to comic strips, and the Houwerzijl Tea Museum, housed in an old church, which teaches visitors all about the production and history of different kinds of tea. The tearoom in the museum lays claim to the most extensive tea menu in the world.
Art in the Street
- If you like some fresh air with your art, go for a walk or a bike ride through the city and take in the 400 public works of art that decorate Groningen. Near the main train station you’ll find the statue of Uncle Loeks’ Horse, a white sculpture that references a local folk song. ULTRA, a 24-foot-tall beautiful woman, is in front of the Cascade building, and for that really remarkable picture, go to the Kleine der A street, which has an artistic urinal made of milk glass. It is a functioning toilet, so be careful.
Martinikerk
- The Martinikerk, or St. Martin's Church, has towered over Groningen for more than half a century. Visitors can climb to the third gallery of the tower; you'll need to buy a ticket to climb it, and wear good shoes when you do. The church, built in about 1230, has 800-year-old frescoes and one of the largest Baroque organs in the region. The organ itself is something of a marvel; many well-known organists have played it and say it has a musical quality that is difficult to match. It's the only organ in the world that still has its original 32-foot principal pipes, built by Arp Schnitger in the late 1600s. If you go during the summer you may be able to catch an organ recital in the church.
Lauwersmeer National Park
- If you're a fan of hiking, boating, walking on the beach or watching sunsets, head northwest from Groningen to Lauwersmeer National Park, located on an inlet of the North Sea along the Dutch coast. The park has marshlands, walking and cycling paths, quiet pastures and hundreds of trees to help out the bird-watchers who come. The real reason to go, however, is to play on the water. Launch your canoe or yacht or rent one there. You can also pay for a boat ride, allowing you to enjoy the ride without worrying about maneuvering the boat. From the village of Lauwersoog in the northwest corner of the park you can also get a ferry to the island of Schiermonnikoog in the North Sea, which has walkable beaches, cycling, camping, fishing, mud hiking and even surfing.
Groningen Beer Festival
- In mid-April Groningen plays host to the annual Bierfestival Groningen, which allows attendees to sample draft and bottled beers not only from the Netherlands but from throughout the world. The two-day festival includes classes taught by well-known “beer gurus”; you may learn a thing or two about the making of your favorite beer. Amateur and professional brewers compete at the festival as well. It takes place inside the Martinikerk. Tickets are available at the door or for pre-sale in a number of locations; check the festival's website for a list.
