Restaurant Guide to Paris

Paris is a city of fabulous food -- in a wide range of price and formality levels. Dining like the locals means eating at small cafes, bistros and brasseries with quintessential Paris sidewalk seating, where observing the passers-by comes free with the meal. Planning ahead in late summer is important, as well as knowing that on Sunday and Monday nights many restaurants are closed. Tipping customs and credit card information are useful pointers, as is forgetting that diet for just a little while.

Bonjour! Breakfast Parisian-Style

• Some of the smaller Paris hotels include continental breakfast with the room rate. Otherwise, taking a walk to one of the neighborhood cafes is the locals' way to start the day. When the weather cooperates, grab a sidewalk table to soak up the people-watching scene while you map out the day's sightseeing. A glass of orange juice and cafe au lait, hot chocolate, or tea with a basket of croissants and pains au chocolat is a typical breakfast. Order fruit, cereal or eggs to get your jet-lagged batteries re-charged. The waiter may offer sparkling or still bottled water, for which you'll pay a premium, but Paris tap water is equally good. And, by all means, don't worry if your waiter doesn't greet you with a cheery smile.

Lunchtime in Paris

• Lunch can be a rather leisurely affair and usually gets underway around 1 p.m. Some of the tasty standard menu items you'll find are salad Nicoise, croque monsieur with pommes frites (French fries), various omelets and French onion soup gratinee, a meal in itself. If you're having wine with lunch, a carafe of the house variety is a common request. On gorgeous days, Parisians often pick up a baguette and soft cheese to enjoy on a park bench or from a perch along the picturesque Seine. Look for homemade bread with its pointy, not rounded, ends. Since sightseeing may call for an ice cream break, prepare to be overwhelmed by 70 flavors at the famous Maison Berthillon on Ile Saint-Louis near Notre-Dame. Note that as of October 2013, they're closed Mondays and Tuesdays and from mid-July throughout August, which is typical of summer schedules at many Paris restaurants.

An Evening in Paris -- With Dinner

• Most restaurants aren't open for dinner before 7:30 p.m. Parisians typically dine out after that time, even sitting down at 9 p.m. in the summer, when the evenings are long. Visa (called Carte Bleue) is widely accepted, as is Master Card (called Eurocard), but restaurants accepting American Express are mainly at the top end only. You don't want to go without dinner on Sunday and Monday evenings, so scout out charming neighborhoods. Try the historically Jewish Maris district, where falafel reigns; the Latin Quarter for steak and fries; and Montparnasse for crepes. Small cafes and bistros serve coffee, drinks and light meals in busy tourist areas, and traditional brasseries tend to remain open until midnight. Hotels can offer suggestions, too, which could include their own restaurants.

Paris Tipping Tips

• A 15 percent service charge is included in all restaurant and bar bills. Leaving a coin or two on the tray as thanks for extra service or kind attention to coats, kids, a spilled drink or attempts at high school French is fine. Round up small bills to the nearest half euro or add one euro per 20 euros of the bill in better restaurants.Tipping is not obligatory, and a waiter should always bring your change. Do tip with cash rather than adding it to a credit card slip. When it's really important to you to get a seat in a popular restaurant, your hotel concierge has the best chance of securing a reservation. If the concierge has performed miracles, leave 15 or 20 euros when you check out, especially if you plan to return to that hotel.

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Cool Stuff Around Paris

The reputation of Paris is that of one of the most sophisticated and cultured cities on the planet, but it is also remarkably cool. Let your inner hipster be your guide as you ramble the streets in search of the unusual, the elegant, the well-hidden and the downright weird stuff that can be found in the City of Light.

What Lies Beneath

• As you descend the 130 steps into the remaining public area of the mass burial grounds known as the catacombs, you will likely begin to feel a slight chill. Beginning in 1786, the city began transferring remains from its overflowing cemeteries to the abandoned quarries beneath the Paris streets. Stacked according to body part, walls of skulls and bones line the passage as you enter beneath the sign that translates to "Halt! This is the realm of Death." The catacombs may be for neither the claustrophobic nor for young children, but they provide good photo opportunities, and there's a charming gift shop when you finally climb out. If you really dig the underground scene, take a tour of the sewer system used by Nazis as air-raid shelters and by Resistance fighters as hideouts during World War II. It's a little smelly, but the history lesson and artifacts make it worthwhile.

Winter Wonderland

• Paris is even more spectacular in winter when the lights stay on all night and ice rinks pop up everywhere from the Trocadero Christmas market to the Hotel de Ville. Perhaps the coolest rink is the one on the first floor of the Eiffel Tower. Admission is included in your tower ticket, but you can also just pay to climb the steps to the rink. You're not allowed to bring your own skates, but the rink provides blades as well as skate trolleys for beginners and children. The festive atmosphere is enhanced by a light show and an ice cream stand.

Horsing Around Paris

• Carousels are a big part of Parisian life. You can ride on an extinct dodo bird or a dinosaur at the Jardin des Plantes or head for the Musée des Arts Forains to spin around on one of 14 antique carousels, including one that you activate by pedaling. The oldest merry-go-round is in the Jardin du Luxembourg, where riders can still spear metal rings like jousting knights of old. Perhaps the most elegant is the Montmartre two-story carousel, with its sleek steeds, fanciful boats and gilded trim.

Look! Up in the Sky!

• Paris is lovely in the spring, and a memorable way to see its wonders is from a slow-moving dirigible. Airship Paris provides an unforgettable journey in a 12-passenger cabin suspended beneath a modern-day blimp. Unlike an airplane, the zeppelin has panoramic windows, and passengers are encouraged to stand or walk about the cabin to get an even better view. Bring your camera to record the experience so friends back home can see just how cool you are and how cool Paris is. Reservations are taken at the first of the year, and flights take place from spring through summer.

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Things to Do During the Week in Paris

Baguettes, berets and bewitching sights put the oh la la in your holiday in Paris. The City of Light is an enormous expanse of beauty waiting to be explored, with 20 arrondissements, or neighborhoods, from the very swanky to the gritty city. These diverse neighborhoods are organized in a spiral starting with the lowest numbers on the banks of the Seine River. Whether you want a relaxing stroll along the streets or a jam-packed day full of sightseeing and activities, you can find it on a weekday in Paris.

Get Your Culture On

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  The Louvre at night

  
  

  Paris is ripe with a multitude of museums. The hard part is deciding which ones to hit. No need for decisions though with the two-, four- or six-day Paris Museum Pass. It allows you to skip the lines and take in as much culture as you can handle. For an extensive collection of van Gogh, check out the Musee d'Orsay. No museum circuit is complete without a jaunt to the Louvre to catch a glimpse of the illustrious "Mona Lisa." At the Musee du Quai Branly you will find art from all over the globe. For more specialized interests try Musee de la Musique, Musee des Arts et Metiers for a journey through the steps of inventors and Musee des Arts Decoratifs for a look at the French way of life.

Tour de Paris

• Sometimes you just want to take it all in, and one of the best ways to do that is on a tour of the city. Running right through the heart of Paris, the Seine provides a perfect vantage point to take in the sights. There are various types of boats to choose from for your tour, including the very small to the very large, with some even serving food. If you are more of a land lover, hop on and off a double-decker bus throughout the day. If you want to slow it down even further, take a self-guided walking tour, getting lost in the many alleyways dotted with tiny art galleries, cafes and shops. To get away from the tourist scene, head out to the neighborhoods on the outskirts of the city with the higher number arrondissements or follow the Seine for some stunning bridge views.
• Picture-Perfect Paris Architecture

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  It's not visit to Paris without a stop at la Tour Eiffel. You can climb to the top or any of the floors in between to enjoy a glass of Champagne as you marvel at the cityscape or have a picnic at the base and admire the view from below. Head down the Champs-Elysees to see the Arc de Triomphe. Snap some photos and pop in to one of the many stores or restaurants lining this upscale and world-famous avenue. If you are in search of a religious experience, head over to Cathedrale Notre Dame de Paris for an architectural treat. And don't forget the famous book store Shakespeare and Company on the Left Bank for new and old books alike. Don't miss the reading room and piano that are tucked into the tiny space. For more sightseeing and a chance to see even more of the city, visit the Bastille, in the eastern part of the city, for a trip through time to the French Revolution or encounter the student scene at La Sorbonne University in the Latin Quarter.

Les Jardins

• You can't travel far in Paris without stumbling upon a park or a garden. Some of the best garden retreats are the ones that are somewhat hidden. The garden at the Archives Nationales is one of those spots. Winding paths lead to flowering trees and beautifully manicured shrubs. The sculpture garden at Musee Rodin is another gem. Tucked behind the museum itself, masterpieces are found at every turn. Adjacent to the Louvre, Jardin des Tuileries is a must see. Sit by one of the many fountains, have a coffee under the trees or watch the children race sailboats and chase ducks. Jardin du Luxembourg goes beyond the typical park with puppet shows and pony rides. Some other larger-than-life parks include Jardin des Plantes, Parc Andre Citroen and Parc de la Villette.

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What Museums Are Included in the Paris Museum Pass in Paris, France?

Paris Museum Pass allows entry to 60 museums and other sites of interest in and around Paris. It covers all the must-sees, from the Louvre and Mussee D'Orsay to chateaus around Paris, including Chantilly and Versailles. The pass is valid for two, four or six days, and if you are able to cram the most iconic sights into a short period, purchasing it saves a lot of money on entrance fees. In addition to monetary savings, the pass guarantees priority entry to attractions -- no queuing apart from the security checks -- which is a huge bonus considering the length of lines for the most popular museums, especially during peak season.

Art Treasures

• The Museum Pass grants entry to some of the most spectacular art showcases in the city. Start with the Louvre, which itself could take days to appreciate fully. The Pass, especially the best-value six-day one, allows for more than one visit and saves queuing time, leaving you free to explore the halls packed with antiques and art up to the middle of the 19th century. Winged Victory of Samothrace, Venus of Milo, Leonardo's "Mona Lisa," Michelangelo's Slaves, Ingres' "Odalisque" and Gericault's "The Raft of the Medusa" are all here. A back wing of the Louvre houses a treasure box of design and decorative arts, Musee des Arts Decoratifs. Orangerie and Musee d'Orsay display outstanding collections of impressionists and post-impressionists while Centre Pompidou houses art of the last 150 years in the ultra-modern, inside-out-designed building. Musee Rodin showcases works by the sculptor indoors and in the gardens.

Palaces

• The Pass covers the most remarkable royal and aristocratic residences in the Paris region. The undisputed highlight of the list is Chateau de Versailles, justifiably described by Frommer's as “the most spectacular palace in the world,” with magnificent formal gardens, and Grand and Petit Trianons thrown in. The design of Versailles was inspired by Chateau de Chantilly Conde, another of the must-see palaces included with the Pass; the Grand Stables and Horse Museum are not included. Chateau de Fontainebleau with its splendid interiors, and Chateau d’Ecouen housing the Musee National de la Renaissance both recall the times of Francois I and Henri II. Chateau de Malmaison, the residence of Josephine Bonaparte, demonstrates the classical-inspired consular style of architecture. Chateau de Vincennes, with its highest donjon in Europe, harks back to medieval times, as does La Conciergerie, a royal palace of the Capetian dynasty later used as a prison during the French Revolution.

Sacred and Historical Sites

• While many churches and cathedrals can be visited for free, holders of the Pass get access to the Radiant Gothic glories of Sainte-Chapelle, up the 422 steps of the towers of the Notre Dame and into its crypt, and to the monumental early Gothic Cathedral of Saint Denis. The superb collection of medieval artifacts of the Musee National du Moyen Age is divided between the 1,000-year-old Gallo-Roman baths of Lutece and the 500-year-old house of the abbots of Cluny. Musee de l'Armee at the Hotel National des Invalides chronicles the history of the French military. The Pass also covers entrance to Napoleon's Tomb and to the terrace of the Arc de Triomphe with its iconic views of the Champs Elysees.

Other Cultures

• As often is the case with Parisian museums, the buildings are as interesting as the exhibitions inside. The ultra-modernist building of Musee du Quai Branly displays ethnic art from Africa, Oceania, Asia and the Americas. Institut du Monde Arabe is dedicated to Arab art, crafts and science, but is worth a visit for the 2012 building itself, in which design blends modern and traditional Arab and Western elements, and the views across the Seine from the observation terrace. Musee Guimet des Arts Asiatiques completes the trio of museums showcasing non-European artifacts, covering the art of the Indian subcontinent and the Far East.

Odds and Ends

• Children and adults alike will have educational fun exploring the science and technology exhibits at Cite des Sciences et de l'Industrie at the Parc de la Villette. You can even visit the Parisian sewers, Les Egouts, although those sensitive to odors should take into account that this is the real deal, not just the models and drawings. If you are interested in modern architecture, take a trip to Le Corbusier’s Villa Savoye in Poissy, a modernist house designed as a embodiment of his theories.

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Top Places to Visit in Paris, France

Paris’ relatively modest population of just over 2.2 million suggests that far too few people have the pleasure of enjoying this astonishing city year-round. For a start, the so-called City of Light incorporates a staggering 38 UNESCO World Heritage Sites, with most of them relatively close to each other and comfortably covered on foot or by hopping on and off the Metro system. As the capital of the most visited country on Earth, Paris sets a formidable standard. Its beauty is in wowing the first-time visitor with a slew of world-famous landmarks, then seducing you on subsequent trips with niche locations that feel as if they are yours alone.

Iconic Landmarks

• No movie featuring Paris is complete without a shot of the city’s most recognizable landmark, the Eiffel Tower. Originally built as a temporary construction for the 1889 World Exhibition, this iron lattice structure reaching 1,049 feet has long since cemented its place in the city’s permanent skyline. Almost 7 million visitors a year travel upward to the top viewing level for magnificent views over the city. At the end of the Champs-Elysees, the Arc de Triomphe is equally representative of all things Parisian. Commissioned by Napoleon in 1806 to commemorate his military victories, the 164-foot arch sits on a roundabout at the center of a traffic frenzy where 12 streets converge. Beneath the arch lies the Grave of the Unknown Soldier, a poignant spot amid the surrounding mayhem.

Cultural Centers

• The Louvre Museum represents the crowning glory of a city steeped in high culture. More than 8 million visitors a year pass through its entrance, marked by an elegant 69-foot-high glass pyramid added in 1989 to what was formerly a royal palace. The museum curates around 35,000 works of art, with more than a million more in storage. Art lovers can stare down the "Mona Lisa" or marvel at the statue of "Venus de Milo," among others. Other outstanding museums include the Orsay, converted from a train station into an art gallery in 1986, with a magnificent collection of impressionist art, and the Centre Pompidou, a futuristic temple of modern art. The building wears its colorful pipes, ducts and elevators on the outside, with masterpieces by Picasso and Matisse on the inside.

Sacred Sites

• Tours of the city’s major sacred sites are free, making the cathedral of Notre-Dame the most visited city landmark, with 13.5 million people passing through a year. Construction of the inspiring Gothic cathedral began in 1163 on an island in the Seine River that has served as a place of worship since Roman times. The only fee charged is to climb the 387 steps up the two front towers, literary home of the eponymous hunchback. Up in Montmartre, the alabaster-domed Sacre-Coeur basilica was built in 1871 to mark a fresh start for the city after the brutal Franco-Prussian war. Ten million visitors a year climb to the basilica, looking out over the Parisian rooftops from the highest landmark in the city.

Popular Places

• For most of the year, the Champs-Elysee serves as the city’s most elegant traffic artery, running for just over a mile between the Place de la Concorde and the Arc de Triomphe. Lined with lime trees, fashionable stores and cafes, the 230-foot-wide boulevard comes to life above all during Bastille Day and during national celebrations, when its length and breadth swarm with crowds. It also provides the dramatic finish for the annual Tour de France bicycle race. The Place de la Concorde is arguably one of Europe’s most historic squares, crisscrossed nowadays by traffic but once the location for the infamous revolutionary guillotine where Louis XVI, Marie Antoinette and others met their demise. Don’t miss the 3,200-year-old Obelisk of the Temple of Ramses II, a gift from Egypt.

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