Roman Ruins in Reims, France

To achieve a complexity of color and texture, artists apply paint in layers, each one subtly influencing the final effect. Just so, the Old World fascinates as we sense the sequential cultures that composed its current face. Travelers to Reims in northeastern France do not need to know that the city was born as Durocortorum, the capital of the Remi tribe, to smell antiquity hanging in the air like perfume despite the prefabricated suburbs and sparkling-wine glitz. Visits to the few preserved Roman ruins add to the experience of the city's many-layered culture.

Mythological Foundation

• Even legend works its way into the texture of a city. Mythology aligns Reims with the Roman Empire by suggesting that Reims was initially founded by Remus, the brother of Romulus who founded of the ancient city of Rome. The Celtic tribe occupying the region supposedly assumed the name of Remes after the city's founder. History establishes that the Remes tribe constructed Reims in about 80 B.C. and called it Durocortorum, meaning circular stronghold. When the Romans conquered the area, they combined the current Champagne region of France with the region encompassing modern-day Belgium; Durocortorum became the capital of the entire area.

Porte de Mars

• Mythology says Mars fathered both Romulus and Remus, so it seems appropriate that the most impressive Roman ruin standing today in Reims is the Porte de Mars, or door of Mars, built in honor of the Roman god of war. The monument stands near the central park in the city, not 15 minutes' walk from the train station. The triumphal arch, composed of three joined arches, is an extraordinary piece. It's adorned with friezes that portray ancient Roman legends, including that of Romulus killing his brother Remus after the latter foolishly criticized the wall Romulus built around Rome. The grand and imposing monument is largely ignored by the modern city, and no nearby marker sets out its name or history.

Cryptoporticus

• Since Reims was flattened during World War I, it's remarkable that an ancient Roman passageway escaped harm. Le Cryptoportique -- the Cryptoporticus -- is an arched passageway set partially below ground. The roof of the passageway was a walkway for the residents of Durocortorum. Three such passageways surrounded the town center during Gallic-Roman times. Le Cryptoportique is located in central Reims at the Place du Forum. The city does little to protect this monument, but it remains well preserved and you can stroll through free of charge.

Taittinger Cellars

• Most visitors come to Reims for its champagne, and Taittinger is a big name in that trade. The champagne cellars of Taittinger (taittinger.com) include galleries that were cut into the chalk deposits 60 feet below the ground by the Romans. They were part of a chalk quarry used between the 4th and 13th centuries. The town is seeking UNESCO World Heritage status for the quarries. During the siege of the town in World War I, residents of Reims lived in them and even published a newspaper there.

Getting to Reims

• Reims is an easy drive or train ride from Paris. It is 89 miles east of Paris, and some 28 miles from Chalons-en-Champagne. Drivers take the A4 east from Paris. Train passengers head to Paris's Gare de l'Est for the 45-minute trip; trains leave every 90 minutes. You can also take one of five trains a day from Strasbourg, a two-hour trip.

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Beaches in St. Tropez, France

Roger Vadim's 1950s classic film "And God Created Woman" not only made an international sensation out of the actress Brigitte Bardot, but it also brought the once peaceful fishing village of St. Tropez, where it was filmed, to the world's attention. The pine groves of the rocky peninsula had long inspired great writers like Guy de Maupassant and artists such as Henri Matisse, but it took the movies to make it famous. Half a century on, this French Riviera resort still attracts A-list celebrities and jet setters, who meander through the designer boutiques situated on its cobblestone streets, grace its sophisticated nightclubs and pose on its beaches.

Beach Life

• St. Tropez is a playground for the rich and famous. Most of the beaches in the area charge an entrance fee of between $20 to $40 (as of June 2013). For this, you will have access to a host of clubs and restaurants, loungers, parasols and showers. Unsurprisingly, you should be prepared for pricey drinks and meals. The more hedonistic beaches boast DJs, dance floors, hot tubs and scantily-clad visitors wearing enough bling to put Rodeo Drive in the shade. Nevertheless, there are other beaches that are better suited to families or those in search of a bit of tranquility.

Pampelonne

• The area's most renowned stretch of sand was the site of Allied landings in 1944. Today the invaders are more likely to be wearing leopard print bikinis, stilettos and white cowboy hats as they strut their stuff. Pampelonne's copious bars and clubs, where the beautiful people come to be seen, range from the sophisticated Club 55 to the child friendly Les Jumeaux. In the height of summer, the three-mile long beach can attract as many as 30,000 people a day, all willing to pay $40 per person to rent beach loungers and parasols. Located four miles southeast of St. Tropez, Pampelonne is a three-hour walk along the Sentier du Littoral, a coastline pathway.

Village Beaches

• Set in front of the pastel-colored fishermen's houses of the old town, La Glaye, La Ponche and De La Fontanette are delightful little beaches perfect for a relaxing hour or two of celebrity-spotting. The super-yachts moored in the picturesque harbor only add to the allure. Some of Bardot's cult scenes from "And God Created Woman" were shot at La Ponche.

Graniers and Bouillabaisse

• Enfolded in wooded hills, the charming Plage Graniers beach is set at the foot of the 17th-century fortified citadel, just outside the village and a short walk along the Sentier du Littoral. It is public and free, so ideal for those that are not traveling on a millionaire's budget. A bit further west is the peaceful Bouillabaisse, which tends to be less crowded and has a stylish fish restaurant as well as great views of the Maures Mountains. Both have shallow waters and are ideal for families.

Salins

• This creek, with its white sand and pink coral shaded by huge umbrella-like pines, is another jet-set magnet, but more laid back than Pampelonne. At the northern end of the beach, on a rock jutting out to sea, lies the tomb of Emile Olivier, a minister of Napoleon III. Further out is the Tête de Chien (dog's head) rock. It is named after the grisly legend that Roman Emperor Nero beheaded a Christian named Torpes and sent the body out to sea with a dog to devour the remains. When the body came ashore intact, the village adopted Torpes as its saint. Half way between St. Tropez and Pampelonne, Salins can be reached by car on the Route des Salins, or via a two-hour walk along the Sentier du Littoral.

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Avignon, France Trip Plans & Vacation Ideas

A city made famous by the Great Western Schism -- when 14th-century French cardinals challenged Rome by appointing their own Pope -- Avignon is a city rich in history. History buffs will have plenty to see wandering the medieval cobblestone streets below the world's largest gothic palace, but the city also offers contemporary culinary and cultural wonders, along with a tranquil town atmosphere that is sure to satisfy even the most seasoned European travelers. International visitors can fly into Paris and then continue to one of the airports near Avignon, which include Nimes, Marseille and Montpellier, drive for between six and seven hours, or travel by high-speed train and arrive in just under three hours.

Historical Avignon

• The architectural treasures inside the medieval walls of Avignon are among the finest in Europe. The city's landmark is the huge gothic Palais des Papes, the fortified palace where Avignon's own rival Pope briefly claimed the throne of St. Peter. The large palace is open to visitors and self-guided tours with an English audio device are available. The frescoes of the Chapelle St-Jean are worth the visit in themselves. For a low-key view of the city's history, take a walk across the Rhone River on the Pont d'Avignon, stroll through the bookshops and historical buildings on the Rue des Teinturiers or stop for a coffee under the ornate clock tower of the Place de l'Horloge.

Artistic Avignon

• Art enthusiasts should head to Avignon in July for the Festival d'Avignon. The month-long festival attracts artists from all over France and the world for performances, expositions and debates. The festival includes musical, theatrical and literary performances in addition to visual arts exhibits -- all held in stunning and diverse venues, such as Romanesque chapels or the massive Cour d'Honneur inside the Palais des Papes. Advance tickets can -- and should -- be booked online for popular one-time performances.
• Nightlife and Entertainment

• If you thought things died down in Avignon sometime around the 15th century, a quick stroll through the city center will quickly introduce you to Avignon's cosmopolitan contemporary side. While the nightlife options can't compete with cities like Paris, Avignon has a vibrant local arts and entertainment scene. Place de l'Horloge -- surrounded by bars and cafes -- is the heart of Avignon's nightlife and a good place to start for a drink and conversation. Opera enthusiasts can head to the 19th-century Opera Theatre for a show, while film buffs head to the Utopia Manutention -- in a nook below the Palais des Papes -- for art-house cinema.

Relaxing in Avignon

• When your mind needs a rest from gothic cathedrals and contemporary art, head to the Rocher des Domes. These tranquil gardens at the top of the hill over Avignon offer spectacular views over the river and the city, along with meticulously landscaped parks, comfortable benches and a swan lake. For some real relaxation, head back to town for one of those afternoon-long lunches that make Provence famous. Walk into any brasserie on the central Place de l'Horloge or head to Hiély Lucullus on Rue de la Republique for dishes such as beef with truffles and locally-produced wines. Foodies can head to the covered market in Les Halles on Saturday morning for cooking lessons with the city's finest chefs.

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Hotel Normandie in Nice, France

It's not just the azure sea that sparkles on the French Riviera; the towns that make up this fabled stretch of coast in the south of France shine with pure enthusiasm for life. Nice, birthplace of the well-known Salade Nicoise, is no exception, and Hotel Normandie is right in the thick of the action in the Musicians Quarter near the center of town. In an area teeming with cafes and bars, this three-star hotel offers bargain rates and an unbeatable location just minutes from the beach.

Take Care of Business

• Located in the center of Nice, Hotel Normandie provides the business traveler easy access to the train station and offers airport transfers as well as shoe shine, Wi-Fi, fax and photocopying services. A short taxi ride from the Acropolis convention center, the hotel is a good stop for the busy and budget-minded business traveler who would rather spend money entertaining than on a hotel used primarily for sleeping. Unlike some Cote d'Azur resort hotels, the Normandie is open year-round.

Share Space With Friends

• In addition to standard single and double rooms, the Normandie offers a selection of triple and quad rooms suitable for families or groups. All 44 rooms are soundproof, air-conditioned and have en-suite bathrooms. Some bathrooms have showers, others have old-fashioned narrow French tubs and still others have modern acrylic resin jetted tubs or handicapped-accessible showers. It's a good idea to state your bath preference when reserving your room. While you're at it, check to see if there is a balcony room available.
• Have Breakfast in Bed

• Even though it's easy to nip down to the lobby breakfast area or a neighboring cafe, weary travelers may want to call the front desk to have breakfast brought up to the room to kick start a day of sightseeing or a round of business talks. A simple "petit dejeuner" -- breakfast -- consists of coffee, juice, fresh croissants, preserves and, in the lobby, endless bowls of cereal and milk for the young backpackers who often populate the quad rooms.

Walk It Off

• The Musicians Quarter is one of the most architecturally picturesque areas in Nice, and Hotel Normandie sits right in the middle of it. A 10-minute wander along streets named after such famous musical personalities as Mozart and Verdi will get you to Old Town and the Cours Saleya flower market. Here you will find a fantastic array of flowers, fruits and vegetables every day of the week except Monday, when the space is transformed into an antiques market. Pick up a baguette, a hunk of local cheese and a piece of fruit, then head for the beach. In 10 minutes you'll be lunching by the sea, enjoying a refreshing beverage from one of many beach vendors. Note that Nice beaches are pebbly, so bring some water shoes or flip-flops and a padded mat.

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Hiking the Pyrenees in France

For a diehard hiker, the French Pyrenees bring to mind one single, large-scale, classic and undeniable route: the GR10, or "Sentier des Pyrenees." The GR10 traverses the entire country, linking the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea by way of the entire mountain range. The route takes each of the mountains' famous vistas in stride -- the Lac de Gaube, the Lac d’Oo and the Cirque de Gavarnie. Even though the GR10 crosses some of France's most forbidding, remote mountain passes, travelers need not pack a camping kit: Mountain refuges along the way provide reliable respite for sore-footed travelers.

The Route

• In "GR10," the "GR" foreshadows the experience: It stands for "Grande Randonnee," which means “long walk" in French. The trail's total distance is 538 miles, which takes most fit travelers between 40 and 60 days to complete, figured for a person who hikes between six and eight hours per day. Most, however, choose to complete shorter sections of the route. Most through-hikers begin their journey at the town of Hendaye on the Atlantic Coast.

Plenty of Challenges

• Hiking the Pyrenees presents a very strenuous proposition, even for very fit explorers. Most of the route sits between 6,000 and 8,000 feet above sea level, with 2,000- to 3,000-foot rolling elevation gains and losses per day and the route's maximum altitude soaring above 9,000 feet. The condition of the trail can be more primitive and cliff-hugging than its sterling pedigree would imply, so injuries -- as well as heat stroke, dehydration and sudden storms -- remain a problem, even for guided tours with on-call support vehicles.

A Short Season

• Because the high-altitude pass at the trail's central Horquette d’Arre remains impassably snow-covered until at least the middle of June, most hikers start their journey when the Horquette is declared traversable. After the summer and early fall, the weather window closes again in October. July and August, however, bring waves of scorching heat in the lower elevations, making early September the most popular time to hike the route.

Break It Into Segments

• If you don't have months to spare for a through-hike, check out one of the GR10's most popular mountain segments. The trail from Hendaye to Borce, for example, extends for a respectable 130 miles, with an approximate elevation gain and loss of 39,000 feet overall. The segment from Borce to Luchon is slightly longer -- 136 miles, with about 50,000 feet of overall gain and loss. The 150 miles between Luchon and Merens sends hikers up and down 56,000 feet. On the final section, from Merens to Banyuls, hikers cover slightly less distance -- 115 miles -- over the course of about 30,000 feet.

How to Find Your Way

• The GR10 route is well-marked along its length. However, if you're planning to complete a short section, pick up a map from the French IGN. The IGN publishes maps of the entire Pyrenees range at 1:25,000, which helps hikers effectively navigate short sections. Alternatively, pick up a GPS device that features onboard maps, then download the Pyrenees-specific maps you need for easy access while on the trail and out-of-service.

Where to Stay

• Hikers without camping gear move much faster and more efficiently than their tent-laden counterparts. Luckily, hostels, mountain refuges and primitive huts lie like cozy little pearls along the GR10 trailside. Almost 800 shelters, in fact, scatter the Pyrenees, many of them on or conveniently close to the GR10. Most of these are more reasonably priced than you might imagine; if you're operating on a strict shoestring, however, check the huts listed on the Lac d'Estaing. The latter are free, but do your homework -- some are locked, semi-derelict or occupied by a mountaintop shepherd.

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Car Travel Law in France

Traveling by car is the only way to access many rural French attractions, warns Frommer’s, so if you’re planning an in-depth visit, it’s something you need to consider. French drivers drive on the right, but be aware that some road rules, particularly those relating to rights-of-way, differ from those in the United States, so review the State Department’s advice on traffic safety before setting out. As is the case in many countries, it’s illegal to drive in France without wearing a seat belt, and while the legal minimum age to drive is 18, you may find that car rental companies impose higher age restrictions.

Paperwork

• You’ll need your U.S. driver’s license if you intend to drive during your stay in France. Legally, you don’t need any other documentation if you’ll be in France for fewer than 90 days, but the United States embassy in Paris strongly recommends either obtaining a French translation of the information on your license, or getting an International Driving Permit before you travel. You must apply for a French driver’s license once you've been in the country more than one year. Carry your passport with you when driving in France.

Equipment

• French law requires that you carry specific equipment in your car when driving in France, although if you rent a car the company should provide these. Three pieces of equipment are compulsory: a warning triangle, a reflective jacket which must be stored in the passenger compartment and put on if you leave the car in a breakdown situation, and, in the winter months, snow chains. As of 2013, drivers are technically required to carry a breathalyzer in the vehicle, but no enforcement provisions are in place.

Driving

• When you're on the road, stay in the right-hand lane, except when passing another vehicle, which should always be done on the left. Unless a sign indicates otherwise, you'll have right of way if you enter an intersection from the right, while on most traffic circles, vehicles already on the circle have priority over those entering it. If visibility is poor, use dipped headlights, and only sound your horn in an urban area if you are in immediate danger.

Speed Limits

• French speed limits vary depending on the road type and location. Wet weather also has an effect. Unless you see signs indicating otherwise, in urban areas you shouldn’t exceed 31 mph, while outside towns and villages the limit is 55 mph for standard roads. On motorways and divided highways the legal maximums are higher; 68 mph on urban motorways and divided highways with a median and 80 mph on freeways. In wet weather speed limits drop to 49 mph outside urban areas, 62 mph for divided highways and 68 mph on all motorways. Bear in mind that French road signs show speeds and distances in kilometers, not miles.

Restrictions

• French traffic law restricts drivers in several ways. Radar cameras capable of recording a car's speed are common on European roads, and are intended to catch drivers breaking the speed limit. Some satnavs and similar navigation devices are capable of indicating speed camera locations, but it's illegal to use this feature so make sure it's switched off, as the penalty in France is a fine of up to 1,500 euros. It is also illegal to drive under the influence of alcohol. Police may conduct a saliva test if they suspect you have been drinking and if your blood level is higher than 0.05 percent you could face a fine or even prison.

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The Memorial Parade on the Champs-Elysees

The parade along the Champs-Elysees is one of the three best-known features of Bastille Day in Paris, the other being the huge nighttime fireworks display over the Champ de Mars. Bastille Day, known to the French as “la fete nationale,” is held on July 14 each year and is the most important ceremonial day in France. Although the parade down the Champs-Elysees is a memorial event, in that it commemorates the events of July 14, 1789, it's predominantly a military parade in which thousands of soldiers march down the boulevard while the president of the republic reviews his country's troops.

Significance

• Bastille Day marks the anniversary of the storming of the Bastille, a fortified prison captured by Parisian citizens on July 14, 1789. In a period of political unrest in France, it was the first time the citizens had achieved a victory against the regime headed by the king. King Louis XVI was executed four years later, marking the formal end of the French monarchy and the beginning of the republic. It is these connections to the birth of the modern French Republic that give Bastille Day a significance similar to that of Independence Day in the United States. The first Bastille Day was celebrated in 1790, but since 1880 the date has been a designated national holiday.

Spectating

• The parade’s route along the Champs-Elysees takes it along one of Paris’ main thoroughfares. The 5,000-man strong parade starts close to the Arc de Triomphe, before moving roughly southeast toward the Place de la Concorde. The parade starts at 10 a.m., with troops lining up by 9 a.m., and lasts between one and two hours. Tens of thousands of people pack the sidewalks along the Champs-Elysees, so get there at least an hour before the parade starts to reserve a viewing spot. You can stand anywhere along the boulevard, although some seating in the Place de la Concorde is reserved for dignitaries, or consider booking a room in a Champs-Elysees hotel for a better view.

Participants

• This is a purely military parade, so don’t expect to see carnival floats, marching bands or other attractions. All arms of the French military are represented in the parade, so you’ll see numerous infantry units, horse-mounted cavalry and motorized troops, some wearing elaborate ceremonial uniforms. Units of firefighters, police and the French Foreign Legion will also be represented. Each year, a different unit is chosen to march in the place of honor at the head of the parade; in 2013, the honor was given to Malian soldiers who fought alongside French troops to suppress an Islamic uprising earlier in the year.

Fly-Past

• One of the best-known features of the parade is the fly-past of French military aircraft that opens the event. France’s elite acrobatic aircraft team, the Patrouille de France – the equivalent of the U.S. military's “Thunderbirds” or “Blue Angels” -- leads the way, leaving red, white and blue contrails in the sky. The precise lineup of aircraft varies from year to year, but you’ll likely see fighter jets and reconnaissance and surveillance aircraft, often alongside aircraft from other European countries to symbolize friendship and cooperation; for example, the 2013 fly-past included German, Belgian and Danish aircraft.

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Places to Visit in France During Spring

Even though the entirety of France is smaller than Texas, the country has four distinct weather zones. Spring is not the same in Normandy, for example, as it is along the Cote d'Azure in the south or in the central Loire Valley. No matter the temperature, spring in France means the trees are blossoming, the roses blooming and the grass is greener. Best of all, travel is cheaper and the streets are less crowded before the summer influx of tourists.

Paris

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  Luxembourg Gardens has a playground and a puppet theater.

  
  

  Paris is called the City of Lights, and a nighttime trip to the top of the Arc de Triomphe will remove any doubt about the veracity of the nickname. Springtime in Paris means you can visit the Louvre and the Eiffel Tower without the usual crowds, but it's still best to buy advance tickets online and to be there when the doors open. Luxembourg Gardens, a large public park on the Left Bank, is filled with statues, fountains and a little lake for you to sail a rented toy boat.

Normandy

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  Mont-Saint-Michel is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

  
  

  Normandy can be a little chilly and rainy in the spring, so bring a travel umbrella and a jacket. History buffs will want to visit the beaches where the Allies landed during World War II, as well as the American Cemetery and Memorial. A visit to Mont-Saint-Michel, a medieval village and monastery perched on a rocky tidal island, is a must. Normandy is not wine country, but the region's hard apple cider and apple brandy pack quite a punch.

The Camargue

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  Camargue horses are born dark but turn white after a few years.

  
  

  More than 340 species of birds call the Camargue wetlands home, including a large colony of pink flamingos. Guided tours are available in spring, and, with any luck, you'll see the birds perform their courtship dance. Although the area is never very crowded, a springtime visit will save you from the aggressive mosquitoes. Each year, on the first of May, the Herdsmen's festival celebrates the small white horses that live in the Camargue marsh when they are not herding bulls. In the nearby town of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, you can book a boat tour or arrange for a beach ride on a gentle Camargue horse.

Loire Valley

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  The Loire Valley is called the "garden of France."

  
  

  Located in the center of France, the Loire Valley is known for its mild climate, fruitful vineyards and its many Renaissance castles, each with an elaborate garden that is in full bloom in spring. Arrange a tour of the castles -- "chateaux" in French -- and visit the haunts of the royals, from Louis XII to Catherine de Medici. See the tomb of Leonardo da Vinci, Joan of Arc's hometown and, just for the fun of it, the Museum of Witchcraft.

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Places to Visit in Normandy

Invaded over the centuries by the Vikings, Romans, English and the Third Reich, Normandy is simply steeped in history. This northwest region of sandy coastline and tranquil pastures has played a pivotal role in France’s past, both distant and recent. Contemporary Normandy, however, revels in its natural, cultural and gastronomic strengths; legions of Parisians make the two-hour trip west each summer to relax at the coastal resorts on the Cotentin Peninsula, while a steady stream of World War II veterans and their relatives make the journey to the D-Day beaches. In between times, visitors can enjoy ample opportunities to sample authentic French cuisine and tour a slew of historic sites.

D-Day Beaches

• On June 6, 1944, the largest maritime invasion in history disembarked on the beaches along Normandy’s English Channel coast. Still known by their code names – Gold, Juno, Sword, Utah and Omaha – the D-Day beaches juxtapose stunning stretches of golden sands with poignant reminders of a period of unrestrained carnage. Visitors can still see German gun positions, British Mulberry harbors where 2.5 million soldiers eventually came ashore and the American cemetery at Colleville-sur-Mer, featured in the film "Saving Private Ryan." Tours of the beaches run from Caen, but there are also museums and memorials at Arromanches and Juno beach.

Mont St. Michel

• Near the border with Brittany, where the rocky coastline receives the full force of Atlantic breakers during the winter, sits France’s third most-visited tourist attraction after the Eiffel Tower and Louvre museum in Paris. Mont St. Michel, dating from the eighth century, is separated from the mainland by a causeway that emerges only during low tides and presents an instantly recognizable silhouette of the 13th-century Gothic abbey rising 400 feet to a sharp pinnacle. While it is no longer possible to drive out to the island, which is one of France’s first UNESCO World Heritage sites, a tram service transports passengers to and from the mainland.

Bayeux

• Normandy’s golden coastline and bucolic landscape are dotted with exquisite fishing villages and market towns that date back centuries. The port of Honfleur on the Seine River, for example, traces its roots back a thousand years and inspired a legion of impressionist artists including Monet and Boudin with its narrow streets and timber-framed houses. The town of Bayeux, too, is dominated by the distinctive Romanesque cathedral dating back to 1077 but famed for the tapestry that depicts scenes from medieval life and the Norman invasion of England. The 230-foot-long tapestry is in its own museum, open seven days a week. Bayeux was a former capital of Gaul and was briefly a provisional capital of France in 1944.

Normandy Towns

• To really appreciate France’s history in context, Normandy’s historic towns provide a refreshing antidote to the typically Paris-centric view many visitors take. Normandy’s largest city, Rouen, predates the Roman invasion of Gaul and famously provided the location for the execution of Joan of Arc in 1431. Art lovers will instantly recognize Rouen cathedral, painted so often by Monet, which houses the tomb of Richard the Lionheart. Caen, on the other hand, fared less well during WWII when it was heavily bombed, but it is an ideal place to begin a D-Day tour and visit the memorial. Among the survivors of wartime bombing are two 11th-century abbeys and the castle built by William the Conqueror, which houses the Musee des Beaux Arts with works by Brueghel, Tintoretto, Poussin and Rubens, among others.

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Restaurant Guide to Paris

Paris is a city of fabulous food -- in a wide range of price and formality levels. Dining like the locals means eating at small cafes, bistros and brasseries with quintessential Paris sidewalk seating, where observing the passers-by comes free with the meal. Planning ahead in late summer is important, as well as knowing that on Sunday and Monday nights many restaurants are closed. Tipping customs and credit card information are useful pointers, as is forgetting that diet for just a little while.

Bonjour! Breakfast Parisian-Style

• Some of the smaller Paris hotels include continental breakfast with the room rate. Otherwise, taking a walk to one of the neighborhood cafes is the locals' way to start the day. When the weather cooperates, grab a sidewalk table to soak up the people-watching scene while you map out the day's sightseeing. A glass of orange juice and cafe au lait, hot chocolate, or tea with a basket of croissants and pains au chocolat is a typical breakfast. Order fruit, cereal or eggs to get your jet-lagged batteries re-charged. The waiter may offer sparkling or still bottled water, for which you'll pay a premium, but Paris tap water is equally good. And, by all means, don't worry if your waiter doesn't greet you with a cheery smile.

Lunchtime in Paris

• Lunch can be a rather leisurely affair and usually gets underway around 1 p.m. Some of the tasty standard menu items you'll find are salad Nicoise, croque monsieur with pommes frites (French fries), various omelets and French onion soup gratinee, a meal in itself. If you're having wine with lunch, a carafe of the house variety is a common request. On gorgeous days, Parisians often pick up a baguette and soft cheese to enjoy on a park bench or from a perch along the picturesque Seine. Look for homemade bread with its pointy, not rounded, ends. Since sightseeing may call for an ice cream break, prepare to be overwhelmed by 70 flavors at the famous Maison Berthillon on Ile Saint-Louis near Notre-Dame. Note that as of October 2013, they're closed Mondays and Tuesdays and from mid-July throughout August, which is typical of summer schedules at many Paris restaurants.

An Evening in Paris -- With Dinner

• Most restaurants aren't open for dinner before 7:30 p.m. Parisians typically dine out after that time, even sitting down at 9 p.m. in the summer, when the evenings are long. Visa (called Carte Bleue) is widely accepted, as is Master Card (called Eurocard), but restaurants accepting American Express are mainly at the top end only. You don't want to go without dinner on Sunday and Monday evenings, so scout out charming neighborhoods. Try the historically Jewish Maris district, where falafel reigns; the Latin Quarter for steak and fries; and Montparnasse for crepes. Small cafes and bistros serve coffee, drinks and light meals in busy tourist areas, and traditional brasseries tend to remain open until midnight. Hotels can offer suggestions, too, which could include their own restaurants.

Paris Tipping Tips

• A 15 percent service charge is included in all restaurant and bar bills. Leaving a coin or two on the tray as thanks for extra service or kind attention to coats, kids, a spilled drink or attempts at high school French is fine. Round up small bills to the nearest half euro or add one euro per 20 euros of the bill in better restaurants.Tipping is not obligatory, and a waiter should always bring your change. Do tip with cash rather than adding it to a credit card slip. When it's really important to you to get a seat in a popular restaurant, your hotel concierge has the best chance of securing a reservation. If the concierge has performed miracles, leave 15 or 20 euros when you check out, especially if you plan to return to that hotel.

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